Care Information

Boot Care

Cleaning Boots with Saddle Soap

Always remove your laces and clean your boots with Saddle Soap to remove dirt before applying polish.

1. Dip a soft bristled brush into warm water, then apply the brush to your Saddle Soap in a circular motion (soap will not foam up - this is normal).
2. Apply the soapy brush head to the area intend to be cleaned. Move the brush in tight circles along the surface of the leather, applying more soap as necessary. Make sure to spend more time on any creases or grooves, and the tongue and welting in your boots where dirt and dust may build up.
3. Using a clean, dry cloth, wipe the soap residue from your boots while wicking away any excess moisture. Make sure you get all the soap off, as you do not want white residue to surface after the boots dry.

Polishing Boots

New boots should be polished before wearing so that first scuffs and dings come out of the polish and not the finish of the leather on the boot. Again, always clean your boots first before attempting to polish them. You should apply two thin even layers of your desired shoe polish.

1. Apply first coat evenly over the whole boot with a soft bristled brush.
2. Use a larger horsehair brush in quick long even strokes to buff the polish.
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2, then lightly spray a soft cotton cloth with water and buff to a shine.

Cock Pumping 101

When done correctly, cock pumping can be used as an effective method for penis enlargement, and possibly to help with Erectile Disfunction. With regular pumping and proper maintenance, long term results can be achieved.

Sizing A Tube

Your pump tube should be large enough to allow the tissue of your penis to expand, but not so large that it begins to pull your scrotum into the tube when pumping. Mr. S recommends a tube that leaves a roughly pinky’s width of gap between the outside of your erect penis and the inside wall of the tube. Do not exaggerate about your size here, boys – having a tube that is too big can suddenly pull your testicles into the tube, which is not a pleasant experience.

Getting Started

Trim your pubic hair. Without a good seal, it’s impossible to get a good pump, and even a few stray hairs can make getting a good seal much more difficult to achieve. There’s no need to shave everything if you prefer a more natural look, however, shaving a ring around the base of the shaft and some of the scrotum will make your pump session more successful. Try to do this a day or two before pumping, to allow any nicks or scratches to heal before your pump session.

Warm up. Take a hot shower or bath to warm the skin and muscles in your groin and member. This will help with overall expansion and increase blood flow. Alternatively, some pumpers will fill a sock with rice, microwave it for a bit, and use it as a heating pad.

Lube up your cylinder and penis. The bottom 2 or 3 inches of the inside of your cylinder should get a good amount of water-based lubricant. Generally, thicker lubes work best, and wont run or let air seep through. If you have difficulty getting a tight seal, try a petroleum jelly (but know that petroleum jelly will degrade any silicone cushions you are using faster than a water-based lube).

Your penis should be lubed thoroughly from glans to the base of the shaft. Avoid getting any lube on the scrotum – this will help keep it from being sucked into the tube.

Come to attention. Get yourself erect. You know what to do, boys.

Wipe off your hands with a dry towel. This will make operating the pump much easier.

Insert your erect penis into the tube. Make sure the tube is firmly pressed into your pelvic area. Spin the tube a quarter inch to the right and left to get a better seal if needed. Make sure your scrotum is not bunching near the tube by pulling down on the skin.

Being erect makes pumping much easier and safer - your vascular system is already full of blood and the tissue is expanded. Without being erect you would need to spend much more time pumping at a slower pace while you waited for the pump to do what your body does naturally. Pumping too fast with a flaccid penis can also damage the tissue or skin.

Begin Pumping

Test your seal. Pump a little air out of the tube to make sure you have a good seal. This is much easier to measure when you are using a pump with a gauge. Mr. S Leather’s Brass Hand Pump is efficient in this regard – if the dial moves then you’ve got a leak - apply a little more lube or use a thicker lube and try again.

Get Pumping. After you’ve got a good seal, you can begin removing air from the tube.

As a beginner, you should not pump too quickly, and there should be no point where you feel pain. Go slow and listen to your body. The goal is to slowly stretch the skin and expand the tissue, not tear or bust the cells. Do not ever pump to a point where you’ve entered the pain scale. Pumping should feel like firm pulling and a pleasant expansion of your shaft and glans - very much like an enhanced erection.

Set a timer. Mr. S recommends a beginning pump time of 10 minutes. When your timer goes off, release the valve on your pump and let the air back into the tube. Always listen to your timer, no matter how much you might love what’s going on in the tube. It can be easy to get carried away, but patience is key to a successful pumping routine.

Massage the tissue. After you’ve removed yourself from the tube, massage more lube into the skin and tissue of your erection. Doing this for 10 minutes keeps your skin hydrated and increases blood flow to the areas of your penis that were just stretched.

You’ve completed your first round of pumping! Your penis should feel a little more plump and engorged.

Round 2 and beyond. As a beginner, if you’ve followed these instructions and listened to your body, it will be safe to do one more round of pumping.

When you have a little more experience under your belt, and you know how pumping affects your body, additional rounds can be added, and you can work up to a regular pumping schedule.

Scheduling & Maintenance

Pumping 2 to 3 times a week is best for lasting results. Make sure to give your penis at least 24 hours of recovery time between sessions. Think of it like a gym routine – if you don’ allow for recovery time, you will only end up doing more harm than good.

• In the first 5 weeks, complete 2 rounds of pumping, 2 to 3 times a week.
• Week 6 through 10 increase the suction slightly and leave the tube on for 15 minutes. Pump 3 times a week, making sure to massage between rounds and allow recovery time.
• After 10 weeks, increase the suction as needed and leave the tube on for 15 minutes each round. Pump 3 times a week, adding another round or two to your sessions.

Make sure to LISTEN TO YOUR BODY. Dial down the intensity of your routine if you see any blisters or weird discoloration happening. Again, you should not be in pain when pumping.

You will hopefully begin to see a noticeable difference in size while flaccid around the 6 week mark, and if you’re diligent, around 10 to 12 months of regular pumping will give you a girthier and possibly longer erect shaft.

Maintenance. Maintaining your enhanced dick and erections requires you to pump every other week at least.

Cleaning

Soap and warm water should be enough to clean your tube. Do not put the tube in a dishwasher as the high temperatures can crack the acrylic.

Make sure you wash any cushions that are being used so the lube doesn’t sit on the toy and degrade the silicone.

Useful Information & Tips

• Do not ejaculate before pumping. Save that for when your penis is engorged and sensitive.
• Some pumpers will wear a shaft ring or cockring after pumping to prolong their pump.
• “Jelqing” is a specific way of massaging the penis muscles and will help you achieve a longer penis when combined with cock pumping.
• Hot Rod 5000 or any other boner supplements sold at Mr. S will help you achieve a better pump by increasing blood flow and will help you maintain a strong erection while pumping.
• You can use a sharpie to mark your progress on the side of the tube as you reach new lengths.
• It is not uncommon to find that after pumping regularly, you may need to increase the size of your tube.
• Swelling may occur, especially in the foreskin – this is normal. Excess liquid (referred to as “edema”) has been trapped in your skin and your body will get rid of it within a few hours. You should only have cause for concern if you experience edema for more than a day. Back off on the suction during your next pump session.

In Summary

Listen to your body. Do not over pump, use plenty of lube, pay attention to your timers, allow adequate recovery time, stay in the pleasure scale, and have patience!

FistPowder 2.0

FistPowder 2.0 is a revolution in fisting lube. It’s completely safe with condoms and toys, stain free, and best of all - super easy to clean up.

FistPowder is registered medical device safe, and is made of a plant-based compound. It’s hypoallergenic and deemed safe for internal use.

Unlike J-Lube, FistPowder does not get stringy (making for a cleaner play session), and it’s designed for human use, so it’s 100% body safe.

One container of FistPowder (at the recommended dose) will yield twenty-six 16oz. bottles of lube!

Since there are no preservatives, each mixture should be used within 24 hours of mixing.

Our Favorite Recipes

The Standard Mix
Great for Fucking.

Mix 5 grams of FistPowder with 500ml (16oz.) of warm water - there is a fill line on the cap that makes it easy to measure out 5 grams. You can use a blender or simply shake it up in a standard 16oz. water bottle.

We recommend letting the mix rest for 20-30 minutes to get the full viscosity, though only giving it 7-10 minutes works great too.

The Hole-Fucker Blend
For fist-fucking sessions.

DOUBLE IT UP! Mix 10 grams of FistPowder with 500ml (16oz.) of warm water - there is a fill line on the cap that makes it easy to measure out 5 grams. You can use a blender or simply shake it up in a standard 16oz. water bottle.

We recommend letting the mix rest for 20-30 minutes to get the full viscosity, though only giving it 7-10 minutes works great too.

Daddy's Recipe
For SERIOUS fist-fucking sessions.

Start with the Hole-Fucker Blend of 10 grams of FistPowder to 500ml (16oz.) of warm water - there is a fill line on the cap that makes it easy to measure out 5 grams. Use a blender and add a tablespoon of your favorite fisting grease (Slam Dunk, Crisco, etc.) Blend it until it is a smooth and consistent mixture. We recommend letting the mix rest for 20-30 minutes to get the full viscosity, though only giving it 7-10 minutes works great too.

Please note, the addition of a grease based lubricant can cause light staining of sheets and clothes.

What are some ways to apply FistPowder?

• Fill a syringe or a plastic bottle equipped with a long, narrow tube (Douche bulbs are great for this) with your prepared FistPowder. Insert up a butt and give it a good squeeze. Put some on your hand and arm and off you go!
• A normal squeeze bottle with a top that closes works well. Check the hair-care area at your drugstore, or pick up one of our Mr. S Leather Sports Bottles.

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J-Lube

J-Lube is a cheap, easy-to-make, latex safe, and incredibly slippery lubricant that is particularly good for getting large objects up your butt. Simply put, it’s a white powder that when added to water makes a great lube. It’s mainly used by veterinarians as an obstetrical lubricant (birthing large animals).

J-Lube is a strange high tech, long chain polyethylene polymer. It takes some practice to get adept in its use, but more than worth the time experimenting to get the perfect blend for you!

One 8oz. container of J-Lube makes an amazing six to eight gallons of lube.

Recommended Mixing Instructions

Mix 1/8 cup J-Lube to 1-1/2 cup water – it can be mixed with a hand-held blender or shaken in a jar. Adjust the consistency by adding water or J-Lube until the consistency is workable.

Mixing in a blender:
Put the water in first, turn the blender on, and then add the powder a little at a time. As the mixture starts to thicken TURN UP the speed or you will burn the motor out. Some people never bother measuring the amount of powder. Using a blender may create lube bubbles/froth. These dissipate over time.

Clean up:
It washes off quickly if you use table salt instead of soap!

Tips & Tricks

• It works best when it’s mixed thick.
• Make small quantities, since it doesn’t keep well – and you don’t really need 6 gallons of lube sitting around, do you? Make it fresh, or keep it in the fridge up to three weeks.
• Cold water is best for mixing. The use of warm water can cause the powder to clump.
• Don’t want cold J-Lube? Place the prepared J-Lube container in a bowl of warm/hot water for a few minutes.
• Freezing & thawing it after mixing, and before using takes care of any lumps and makes it a thicker mixture.

What Are Some Ways To Apply J-Lube?

• Fill a syringe or a plastic bottle equipped with a long, narrow tube (Douche bulbs are great for this) with your prepared J-Lube. Insert up a butt and give it a good squeeze. Put some on your hand and arm and off you go!
• A normal squeeze bottle with a top that closes works well. Check the hair-care area at your drugstore.
• Frozen J-Lube cubes! These melt quickly and can be a welcome relief to a well-used hole after an evening of play! You can use Popsicle molds, too.
• Try putting J-Lube powder in a cup and water in another. Dip your fingers into the dry and apply to the butt, then dip your fingers into the water; presto! Dip your fingers into the water when you need to refresh. This is an easy way to play with J-Lube without making a full batch.

Can You Mix J-Lube And Crisco?

Mix 1/4 cup of J-Lube with 1/4 cup of water. Mix this with one half of a 3-lb can of Crisco in a food processor (or in a bowl with a spoon), then add the rest of the can of Crisco and finish mixing it. Refrigerate or freeze it until playtime.

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K-Lube

K-Lube is a long lasting, nondrying, powder-based lubricant.

Simply add water and shake - then watch the powder dissolve into a super slick lube that’s perfect for fisting or toy play. K-Lube is completely inert and non-irritating, and contains special preservatives so that the finished product stays as fresh as the day you make it. Mix as much of it as you want, and save it for later use. Cleans easily with soap and water, and is condom safe.

One 200g bottle will make approximately 20 liters of lube.

Recommended Mixing Instructions

Mix 2 teaspoons per 0.5 litres of water in a water bottle or sports bottle, and shake for a good 30 seconds.

What are some ways to apply K-Lube?

• Fill a syringe or a plastic bottle equipped with a long, narrow tube (Douche bulbs are great for this) with your prepared K-Lube. Insert up a butt and give it a good squeeze. Put some on your hand and arm and off you go!
• A normal squeeze bottle with a top that closes works well. Check the hair-care area at your drugstore.

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Leather Care

Your new piece of leather should bring you years of wear and use if cared for properly. Take care of your gear so you can pass it on to your boy when you’ve grown out of it.

Dirt, sweat, and grime can build up on leather, making it appear worn and dirty. This is easily rectified and avoided if cleaned and conditioned as needed:

Harnesses

Sweat and sunscreen is one of the biggest issues with harnesses. Sweat tends to be salty and can leave a white residue on leather if not cared for, especially under the armpits. Sunscreen mixed with your natural body oils can also increase this effect. It is easy enough to take a damp cloth and wipe that sweat residue off your harness before hanging it up for the night. It’s handy to have some leather upholstery wipes for just this use.

If you find your harness needs a deeper clean, we recommend you use Saddle Soap, possibly followed by a conditioning. Instructions on cleaning and conditioning to follow. Always make sure your harness is fully dry before hanging or storing it. Never let your harness sit in a damp area where mold can grow.

Garments

With regular wear, pants and shirts can get a little dirty and worn. To bring back the life and luster of leather garments, we recommend a thorough cleaning with Saddle Soap then either touch-ups with our Mr. S Black Dubbin, or a full conditioning with 4-Way Care depending on the cleaned state of the leather. Instructions on cleaning and conditioning to follow.

Comparing Leather Care Products

Saddle Soap is a leather cleaner and minor conditioner that thoroughly cleans leather of dirt, dust, and salt deposits from sweat.

Mr. S Black Dubbin is great for taking care of minor scuffs, scrapes, and discolorations. Should only be used on black leathers, as it contains a small amount of black dye (but not nearly as much as a shoe polish), and never on suede. Dubbin is not great for deep conditioning, but it will help keep your leathers supple and help wick moisture.

4-Way Care should be used when your leathers feel dry, papery, or stiff. It is possible to use too much conditioner, so work with small amounts at a time and repeat if necessary. 4-Way Care can be used on colored leathers (but may darken lighter leathers), and never on suede.

Cleaning Leather with Saddle Soap

1. Dip a soft bristled brush into warm water, then apply the brush to your Saddle Soap in a circular motion (soap will not foam up - this is normal).
2. Apply the soapy brush head to the area intend to be cleaned. Move the brush in tight circles along the surface of the leather, applying more soap as necessary. Make sure to spend more time on any creases or grooves in your leather where dirt and dust may build up.
3. Using a clean, dry cloth, wipe the soap residue from the leather while wicking away any excess moisture. Make sure you get all the soap off, as you do not want white residue to surface after the leather dries. Again, pay special attention to creases and grooves where there may be extra buildup.

Mr. S recommends you condition every other time you do a cleaning with your Saddle Soap, as this process can remove beneficial oils from the leather.

Touch-Ups with Mr. S Black Dubbin

1. Using a clean dry cloth, rub the Dubbin surface in a circular motion to pick up a small amount of the product.
2. Massage the product into the leather surface, working in tight circles.
3. Wipe off any excess with a dry cloth, and repeat the process if necessary.
4. When leather is fully dry, buff with a soft, dry cloth to develop a nice sheen.

Conditioning Leather with 4-Way Care

1. Shake the container well, then apply a small amount of conditioner to a clean cloth or sponge.
2. Using your cloth/sponge, spread a thin coat over the area you want conditioned, and give it 5 minutes to penetrate the surface thoroughly.
3. Working in tight circles, briskly rub the surface of the leather with a dry cloth to remove excess conditioner and to polish the surface.

It is possible to use too much conditioner, so condition in multiple layers if need be, making sure to let the leather fully dry between layers. Repeat this process until your leather feels healthy.

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Neoprene Care

Since neoprene is essentially wetsuit material, it’s great for sweaty dance floors, watersports scenes, and hot sex. It’s easy to clean, and lightweight, so it travels well.

Neoprene gear requires a small amount of care and maintenance - if you take good care of your neoprene garments, they will provide you with years of fun.

To keep your gear looking its best, follow these guidelines:

• Creases are normal and can be removed by washing and hanging overnight; wearing the item for a while will remove creases quickly. Creases will appear more frequently in our Shiny Neoprene than our Matte colors.
• Oil-based and silicone lubricants will deteriorate your neoprene. Also be sure to wash any food grease off your neoprene immediately, as it can stain or weaken the material.
• Keep away from extreme heat or open flames; these will melt the glues and fabric.
• Avoid sharp objects, including fingernails. Be careful about sitting on rough or abrasive surfaces.
• You can wear your neoprene in a chlorinated pool, but this may fade the colors over time, as will any sun exposure. Shiny neoprene will resist discoloration much more than our Matte colors.

Storage

It’s always a good idea to hang your neoprene when possible. If hanging isn’t an option, make sure it’s laid flat, with nothing on top of it. Try not to wad the neoprene or fold it for prolonged periods as this will create deep creases. Do not store in excessive heat or direct sunlight.

Travel

If you are traveling with your neoprene, rolling it up around a couple t-shirts can help prevent creases, then immediately remove it from your luggage when you get to your destination. For puppy hoods, stuffing the inside with socks and underwear or a couple t-shirts will keep it from getting flattened. Do not put heavy items on top of your neoprene.

Washing

Make sure to wash your gear immediately after play. Fill your sink with room temperature water and swish your neoprene around with a couple drops of dish soap (we recommend blue Dawn) to remove body oils, lube, suntan lotion, and piss. Give it a good rinse and let it hang dry.

If you do get oil-based or silicone lubes on your gear, apply dish soap directly to the area and massage it gently into the neoprene with your palms, then rinse. Repeat as necessary.

DO NOT use anti-bacterial soap or hot water. Both will damage your garment.

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Latex Care

Wearing

Putting on latex garments is always easier with liberal amounts of Mr. S Bodyglide applied directly to the body first. As an alternative, latex can be put on in the shower allowing the water to work as a lubricant, just towel dry before polishing.

Best practice when putting on latex is to use the outside of your hands to pull the garments on - using the tips of your fingers can leave unsightly welts and dents. Sometimes getting a friend to help can make all the difference.

Polishing

Always clean your latex garments before polishing.

Black Beauty is a light spray that gives your garment a high shine but does transfer to other surfaces and may need occasional re-application. Black Beauty is best applied when the garment is on and dry.

Vivishine is a long-lasting latex polish that will leave your latex gear shiny and polished for long periods of time. Vivishine is best applied before the garment is on, right after it’s been cleaned.

Cleaning

Always clean your garment before polishing, and do not store your latex with polish or sweat on it.

1. Submerge your garment in room temperature water along with a couple drops of dish soap. DO NOT use anti-bacterial soap or hot water.
2. Swish the latex around with your hands for about 5 minutes to remove lube, sweat, sunscreen, and piss.
3. Rinse thoroughly to remove any soap residue. At this point you can polish with Vivishine or proceed to drying for storage.
4. Hang dry in a room temperature environment away from any sunlight. Once the outside has completely dried, turn the garment inside-out and allow the inside to dry.

Storage

1. Complete steps 1 through 4 of the cleaning process to make sure your garment is free of lubes, oils, and sweat - do not store until garment has completely dried.
2. Dust the inside and outside of the garment with a cornstarch-based talcum powder or baby powder. This prevents the latex from potentially sticking to itself over time – you’ll need to wash this off before polishing it later.
3. For smaller pieces, lightly fold and place in a plastic bag. For larger pieces such as sleepsacks or catsuits, hang and cover with an opaque garment bag.
4. Store all latex at room temperature out of any direct sunlight and away from moisture. Dresser drawers and backs of closets make ideal places.

Do Not:

• Leave your latex in direct sunlight for any length of time. This can oxidize the latex and permanently damage the coloration.
• Expose to extreme heat or open flames. Melting!
• Be careless around sharp objects such as fingernails, jewelry, hardware, etc. Latex is easy to puncture and hard to repair.
• Use oil-based lubes - this can weaken the rubber and weaken the glue that binds it together. Also avoid any silicone lubes with additives for your skin, such as Gun Oil. We recommend Mr. S Bodyglide because it is free of any extra additives.

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